dancing at gaudy, sparkly wedding parties held behind mud walls
wandering among roses in bloom at bagh-e-babur, on a saturday when it's quiet
the effects of banning math: in a room of educated professionals, i ask "what's 12 x 10?" and one woman answers "102" and another gets out her cell phone to figure it out on the calculator
old men in impressive turbans
the brutality of men in this country, who beat their wives (my friends) and children
afghan gorp: raisins and roasted chickpeas (i guess that would be "gorc")
a midwife who used to be a karate champion and misses the days of short skirts in kabul
laughing with friends
banana-scented hand soap
tiny shops that are aladdin's caves of glass, carpets, silver, lapis, and mirrored dresses
lovely feta and walnut torte in the lush garden at le pelican
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